Iceland: the great crossing – Kjolur 1st part
After sightseeing in Reykjavík, I prepared everything for the big travel- The heart beats. The bus arrived to pick me up and I was wondering who would be my next travel companions.
They are the first, we stop at the bus station, first persons go up … French … still French, then German, then a group of four Danes.
A beautiful mix with age ranging from 17 to 75 years-old and, as always, I am the only and only Italian in the group.
We look silently and distrustfully at each other until we reached the first stop.
Thingvellir: UNESCO National Park, between the two well-defined tectonic plateaus: the American and the Eurasian.
During this very fascinating journey, we began to relate to each other, we asked each other the names, where we come from and we started to get to know each other.
Second stage of our journey:
The great Geysir, the one that gave its name to all the geysers, but unfortunately floods seldom, and then we go towards ‘his little brother’ Strokkur activating every 4-8 minutes, with water-jets over 20 meters high. Big emotions!! Photos, videos and conversation … we start to create the group!
Third and last stage
The Gullfoss waterfall (from Icelandic: gull “golden” and foss “cascade”) “cascade of gold”
Gullfoss, often nicknamed “the queen of all Icelandic waterfalls” for the theatricality, beauty and tick of light of its double shove.
As a beginning of Iceland’s natural spectacle, it is not bad at all … a marvel, so I start thinking about how it would be cross the country from south to north on horseback.
We begin to be a bit tired, because we thought of going immediately to the horses without knowing that we would have made tourism too. It was already nine o’clock in the evening, but the sun was still high on the sky and we struggle to adapt to the light, still strong and to which we are not accustomed.
Finally: we start to see our little horses, all free in herd.
Arrived at Myrkholt Guesthouse, Jessica, our guide welcomed us; we bring our bags, we are assigned places to sleep and we dinner already ready for us.
What better place to chat and start being familiar? Sitting around the table with a nice hot dinner.
Among the various presentations, I realize, once again, to be the one with less equestrian experience but certainly with a lot of enthusiasm.
F35 – Kjolur trail – Blue route
5th AUGUST – Sunday Yuppie: the big day arrived, so let’s go!
After a good breakfast and a briefing prepared by the owners of the horses and the location, Joanina and Gusti, we are taken to the stables to get to know the horses and to have all the information necessary to manage them.
We begin to see and know how saddles are made and how horses are to be equipped. Each of us took the saddle assigned and saddle up to the end of the tour, even if we exchange the horses.
We get some notions about the “Icelandic horses”, how they are managed, saddled and how to get on and off.
This time my “luck” is remarkable: being “small” horses I will not make me to look bad to go up and down, I will not need to use “ladders”. I will look like an experienced and skilled rider!!!
Another new feature is the pace. “IL TOLT” belongs only to these horses and they have to explain how the structure should be saddled, how the reins and legs must be kept, the stirrup leather is long.
I will learn, I hope soon …
All of us ready, all in the saddle, Jessica is ahead of us to guide and keep the right speed, while Joanina, Gusti and the other guides let the herd of 40 free horses out to lead them towards our first stage and then exchange the horses, in order to do not tire them too much!
but certainly with a lot of enthusiasm.
F35 – Kjolur trail – Blue route
5th AUGUST – Sunday Yuppie: the big day arrived, so let’s go!
After a good breakfast and a briefing prepared by the owners of the horses and the location, Joanina and Gusti, we are taken to the stables to get to know the horses and to have all the information necessary to manage them.
We begin to see and know how saddles are made and how horses are to be equipped. Each of us took the saddle assigned and saddle up to the end of the tour, even if we exchange the horses.
We get some notions about the “Icelandic horses”, how they are managed, saddled and how to get on and off.
This time my “luck” is remarkable: being “small” horses I will not make me to look bad to go up and down, I will not need to use “ladders”. I will look like an experienced and skilled rider!!!
Another new feature is the pace. “IL TOLT” belongs only to these horses and they have to explain how the structure should be saddled, how the reins and legs must be kept, the stirrup leather is long.
I will learn, I hope soon …
All of us ready, all in the saddle, Jessica is ahead of us to guide and keep the right speed, while Joanina, Gusti and the other guides let the herd of 40 free horses out to lead them towards our first stage and then exchange the horses, in order to do not tire them too much!
My little horse is a bit naughty, to say, for not say that perhaps I’m a bit clumsy; it makes a nice mix of gaits: trot, tolt, gallop … that’s crazy! I jump more than a little on this saddle, but I am so happy and excited that I cope with everything.
We arrived around lunchtime in a place with only an enclosed space for the herd and we found all those 40 horses left before us with Joanina and Gusti but now waiting for us.
What a show!!!! After the picnic, different horses were assigned to each other, so let us go again.
PURE EMOTION. Everything that I had read and seen in YouTube movies is coming true!
The herd comes out of the gate, with the guides, waiting on our horses, we see the herd starting gallop, free, proud, elegant, fast while we must struggle to curb the horses we are mounting, as they would like to be in the herd too.
As soon as the last of the free horses passed, we start follow them.
My mind will never forget those moments, so beautiful and particular that they seem almost “IRREAL”.
The guides are “FANTASTIC”, as soon as some free horses try to lose their way … they manage to reach it in so short time and make him return freely to the herd.
If you do not live these moments personally, being there and participating, it becomes really difficult to transmit how could be the feeling inside.
When the horses are free in the herd, they are fast, they gallop, they move away, they slow down, they run away, and the guides must be very careful to manage them, they must follow us, preventing us from entering the herd, otherwise it would be a big problem, given the absolute inability to handle the horse.
All this creates a very cohesive atmosphere, of mutual help among us who participate in this “dream come true”, the landscape, the tolt, the guides, the free horses …. NO COMMENT!
THE GROUP JOINS, TALKS, LAUGHS, and JOKES, photos, smiles, and fun …
We arrived at the guest house, we set the horses, and a wonderful dinner awaited us!
My dear friends … we are only on the first day, it is 10 p.m., the sunlight is still there. I sit down with my notebook, looking the group talking and laughing, hearing the comments on this day, how each of us has experienced his own horse. The guides begin to interact with us, they tell as stories … we filled with pleasure in lived stories. It’s time to close the notebook, get into the sleeping bag and sleep. All of us are overcome by fatigue, both physical and psychological.
6th AUGUST – Monday
After the first day, the morning of Monday is filled with curiosity both for the path that we will do, and for the way in which it will be organized.
Meanwhile, we wake up around 7 a.m., already daylight since the sun rises at 4 a.m.
Breakfast is ready and abundant: freshly made porridge (oatmeal), fruits, muesli, cinnamon, cheese, bread, meats, tea, coffee, milk, chocolate … we have everything, despite the difficulty of organizing our stops in these small uninhabited huts. They are really prepared. An extremely efficient lady, she follows us with an off-road vehicle and a van with our bags and everything we need for dinner and breakfast, every day in different and uninhabited places.
Our direction is always to the north, following the legendary route F35, known as Kjolur.
We go towards the slopes of the Blàfel mountain, a large mountain lies at the east of the Langajokull glacier, with an excellent view. Area inhabited by outlaws, the source of ancient legends.
We cross the Hvita River and then we met to the Svarta River, where we stop overnight.
Interesting path, preparations begin. We look at the weathercast, a little cloudy, chilly, there are around 3°C, a small fog bank encircles us … Would be rain? Who knows, in this period of the year it is normal to rain even every day, so you have to dress like a “cabbage” and wear the anti-water suit since, however regardless of the weather, you will not stop.
The guides prepare the horses, we dress, collect our bags and put them in the van. We make sandwiches for lunch and fresh water to bring with us.
Everybody wonders: “What horse do I ride this morning?”
Mystery … we have never been able to understand the dynamics of assignment, but they know it, the guides, know all 60 horses by name, their character, how they are, and who can saddle them.
All of us ready, dressed, with our saddles, the reins, the box with the sandwich to put in the saddlebags and the water.
We are all close, we look and peer at each other. They start pulling the horses one by one out with the headboard and they call our names. Once we had the horse, we brush it, we saddle it, and we fix the reins.
Well, the horses are ready to ride.
LET’S START … I’m the one with the white helmet …
it seems to be a beautiful sunny day … beautiful but the wind is really cold, so we need the anti-water suits for the wind. The view is spectacular …
The group joins more and more. We deepen the knowledge during the lunch break. We sit on the ground, eating our sandwich, while we chat, complaining about the cold air, but at the same time the peacefulness created between us is more and more profound. Small groups are shaped, usually the French people stay together because they are the largest group, and so they are free to speak their language, and communicate. They understand that I speak French, so when I’m with them I join their conversations. For the rest we all try to speak in English for a complete understanding.
The day ends with arrival in a new mountain hut, we unsaddle the horses, lodge their saddles, and greet them; they too have to rest and come together with the herd. Seeing their calmness is incomparable. They eat, drink, rest and sleep …
After setting up the horses, the basic part of the tour, we entered the hut, and, as usual, we brought the bags to the bed assigned and then slowly, we relax, drink a good tea with biscuits, take a shower, and get ready for dinner.
The curiosity for the dinner dishes is always so great. The lady cooks very well in very narrow spaces but we never miss anything. In fact, many times we are not able to eat everything that prepares.
Our evenings become very nice and nice, we organize team games, presentations, try in every way to make us as cohesive as possible. What always strikes me is the simplicity of the participants, the desire to share own experiences with the others, and never complain. It often happens to have only two showers for 20 people, one at a time, without problems; there are those who will bath before dinner and others after dinner.
The way in which people adapt to these “riding holidays” is definitely one of the “must” of the trip. When in a group that is unknown, peace, respect, serenity and the desire to share reigns, then the experience becomes unforgettable. I’m really happy for my choice; day after day is always more and more beautiful and interesting.
Good night! …
To be continue … next article of blog …
